Parque Nacional Coiba
This past weekend I ended up in jail. Please send bail money, cigarettes and a large raft. What used to Panama's own version of Alcatraz, Parque Nacional Coiba is now the third largest marine park in the world behind the Great Barrier Reef and Galapagos Islands, and I was real fortunate to make its acquaintance.
It's a great chain of Pacific islands that has only recently been given protected park status. Up until 2004, it was a Devil's Island-style penal colony built at the beginning of the 20th century, where the convicts, who were all serious thugs - rapists, murderers, and lawyers (just kiddin) - were allowed to roam free on the giant island. It was the guards who locked themselves in with guns at night.
I asked the guard what happened if a convict escaped. He smirked, and said they did nothing but sit and wait. The remote location and shark-infested waters ensured they wouldn't go far.
In addition to run-away prisoners, I was on the look-out for the rumored "mud man," who according to legend, conducted "mercy killings" on other prisoners on the island by sneaking up, strangling them and whispering apologies. It's ok as long as he says he's sorry.
The only lodgings on the main island are the inviting old jail and cabins set up by the government for scientists and the occasional adventure group. While the jail aspect caused a bit of apprehension when we were visiting for the weekend, what really captured our attention was the incredible wildlife. Of the park's over 430,000 hectares, 85% is virgin forest that's been left untouched by the recent spate of development.
Because of it, we were surrounded by very cool and curious critters. If you didn't catch Tito the crocodile keeping vigilant watch, the giant rodents neques, the lizards, parakeets or hawks, it was Sarah the domesticated deer that'd steal your attention, while he was stealing your sandals - she was a brazen thief. All this was just on land - the real excitement took place in the water.
Our main goal was to see some whales - that was knocked off our list right away. The whale gods were very kind to us, as we bumped into humpback whales on our way out to Panama's largest island and on our way back to civilization. We also saw a loggerhead turtles popping their heads up.
That's me on the second row on the right taking pictures...
The park is renowned for its marine diversity - diving and snorkeling can be intense as we found out. I went with a Panamanian friend of mine who had never really learned to swim past the doggie paddle and had never snorkeled before. It's crazy - Panama is surrounded by water on all ends, but the majority of Panamanians can't swim. Normally I blame rap music for all of society's ills, but I can't find a blameworthy culprit for this astonishing revelation.
I convinced my friend to snorkel the reef around this tiny deserted island. At the end of the white sandy beach was a peninsula of giant rocks that led deep into the ocean, making a cool place for tons of fish to congregate. As we doggie-paddled our way around the first turn, I caught something snooping out of the corner of my eye - it was a 6-foot long white tipped shark checking us out. Imagine snorkeling for the first time and having a hungry shark size you up for dinner. I've heard Panamanians are tastier than gringos, so I wasn't too afraid.
Yeah, that's a blatant lie...after I soiled my shorts, I took a deep breath and let the shark pass about 10 feet in front of us. Rules of the ocean - anything with sharper teeth than me gets the right of way.
We kept on swimming and ran into another shark. It was incredible. Thank God we're not part of their food chain.
Here are some other pictures from the weekend:
We ran into a pod of about 40 dolphins who took turns swimming in the boat's wake.
This deer kept on stealing sandals and snorkeling gear. I caught her just as she was about to grab a mask.
She was cool with me because I kept feeding her Cheeze-its.
Tito the crocodile
A neque - one of the largest rodents in the world
Folsom Prison Blues...Entrance to the prison
Not quite paradise...
It's a great chain of Pacific islands that has only recently been given protected park status. Up until 2004, it was a Devil's Island-style penal colony built at the beginning of the 20th century, where the convicts, who were all serious thugs - rapists, murderers, and lawyers (just kiddin) - were allowed to roam free on the giant island. It was the guards who locked themselves in with guns at night.
I asked the guard what happened if a convict escaped. He smirked, and said they did nothing but sit and wait. The remote location and shark-infested waters ensured they wouldn't go far.
In addition to run-away prisoners, I was on the look-out for the rumored "mud man," who according to legend, conducted "mercy killings" on other prisoners on the island by sneaking up, strangling them and whispering apologies. It's ok as long as he says he's sorry.
The only lodgings on the main island are the inviting old jail and cabins set up by the government for scientists and the occasional adventure group. While the jail aspect caused a bit of apprehension when we were visiting for the weekend, what really captured our attention was the incredible wildlife. Of the park's over 430,000 hectares, 85% is virgin forest that's been left untouched by the recent spate of development.
Because of it, we were surrounded by very cool and curious critters. If you didn't catch Tito the crocodile keeping vigilant watch, the giant rodents neques, the lizards, parakeets or hawks, it was Sarah the domesticated deer that'd steal your attention, while he was stealing your sandals - she was a brazen thief. All this was just on land - the real excitement took place in the water.
Our main goal was to see some whales - that was knocked off our list right away. The whale gods were very kind to us, as we bumped into humpback whales on our way out to Panama's largest island and on our way back to civilization. We also saw a loggerhead turtles popping their heads up.
That's me on the second row on the right taking pictures...
The park is renowned for its marine diversity - diving and snorkeling can be intense as we found out. I went with a Panamanian friend of mine who had never really learned to swim past the doggie paddle and had never snorkeled before. It's crazy - Panama is surrounded by water on all ends, but the majority of Panamanians can't swim. Normally I blame rap music for all of society's ills, but I can't find a blameworthy culprit for this astonishing revelation.
I convinced my friend to snorkel the reef around this tiny deserted island. At the end of the white sandy beach was a peninsula of giant rocks that led deep into the ocean, making a cool place for tons of fish to congregate. As we doggie-paddled our way around the first turn, I caught something snooping out of the corner of my eye - it was a 6-foot long white tipped shark checking us out. Imagine snorkeling for the first time and having a hungry shark size you up for dinner. I've heard Panamanians are tastier than gringos, so I wasn't too afraid.
Yeah, that's a blatant lie...after I soiled my shorts, I took a deep breath and let the shark pass about 10 feet in front of us. Rules of the ocean - anything with sharper teeth than me gets the right of way.
We kept on swimming and ran into another shark. It was incredible. Thank God we're not part of their food chain.
Here are some other pictures from the weekend:
We ran into a pod of about 40 dolphins who took turns swimming in the boat's wake.
This deer kept on stealing sandals and snorkeling gear. I caught her just as she was about to grab a mask.
She was cool with me because I kept feeding her Cheeze-its.
Tito the crocodile
A neque - one of the largest rodents in the world
Folsom Prison Blues...Entrance to the prison
Not quite paradise...
posted by Bram Fiebelkorn at
2:18 PM
3 Comments:
It's not rap music to blame, it's reggaeton, rap's illegitimate latino step-child.
By
Anonymous, at 6:34 AM
Great Coiba pictures! Regards,
Alvaro
http://mypanamalawyer.blogspot.com/
By
Anonymous, at 1:12 PM
actually when I was in school in Panama it was mandatory for students to learn to swim... every week we where at the pool! that was a while back though.
By
Anonymous, at 12:44 AM
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